February 26, 2010 – Barcelona, Spain
From my journal: I’m in the Geneva Airport. Because it’s EasyJet, and not a morning flight, we’re delayed about 45 minutes. It’s not as bad as it could be, and we’re chilling in a little cafe in our terminal called le prêt à manger. I’m eating a delicious tarte ratatouille (vegetable tart). I didn’t bring a book with me, because I wasn’t in the mood for 1001 nights, and I may end up buying one in the Payot Librarie in the airport here, unless everything is overpriced.
Finally, we get on the plane and arrive in Barcelona around 6:30 pm. The metro in Spain is wonderfully efficient, and after searching through the rather-complex, color-coded map, we found the stop we needed for our hostel: Drassanes. Exiting the metro, we realized we were standing in the middle of La Rambla. At night. It’s gorgeous, officially, and there’s the statue of Christopher Columbus visible in the distance. The street signs, however, were small, and without a map, it took us a little while to figure out where the street toward our hostel was. We found it (not like Columbus and America), and we walked through this narrow, tree-lined street to the Barcelona4Fun Hostel. I’m not kidding, that’s actually what it was called. It was wonderful though – gorgeous stairways to the 3rd floor, where the office was. The bathrooms were decent, and we had free internet access right outside our room.
The ATM decided to hate me, but we went to Carrer de Argentina and had dinner at Taller de Tapas, a super snazzy tapas bar just a 5 minute walk from our hostel. I found a Barclays ATM after dinner (of course, there’s 7,000 of them in Spain and I can’t find a single one in Geneva), and was really excited for no fees. We went back to our hostel to figure out Spanish nightlife… and take naps. That night we went to Nista Apollo, this crazy club with a British guest deejay, so the place was packed. We walked in as he started the Lion King remix. It was absolutely fantastic.
February 27, 2010
Sightseeing in Barcelona started with a walk down La Rambla to find that all banks are closed on weekends and that if we weren’t careful, we spend all of our money on jewelry. I bought a necklace/earring set, which is absolutely gorgeous, postcards for my travel journal, and a magnet for the refrigerator in my house in Tampa (i.e. present for my mamá). First, we walked to the port end of La Rambla to the Christopher Columbus monument, where I proceeded to climb up on one of the lions. We got ourselves maps at the tourist office, and set off for the Gaudí Cathedral and Museum. The faces on the cathedral statues/sculptures contain more emotion that I could mentally or physically process. We stared at them all for entirely too long – I’m sure some of the other tourists thought we were crazy. Imagine this but on the ENTIRE cathedral:
After we circled the cathedral snapping pictures of every square inch of stone, we found another entrance to the metro, taking the train to Passeig de Grácia. This street, known for its high end shopping, also houses the Casa Mila, more famously known as “La Pedrera.” The Gaudí buildings scattered around Barcelona can be spotted from just about a mile away. Each is distinctive in its own right. La Pedrera is wrought with iron working, the Casa Botilla and the Casa Lleó Morera couldn’t be more different from each other and La Pedrera. With two more destinations on our list, we hit the road again, this time headed north to Parc Güell. We took a detour first to see Casa Vicens, which I’ve re-named my gingerbread house. Trying to get the entire house into a picture was a challenge in itself, as we only had the width of the narrow street in front of us to work with.
Our adventure of the day concluded with the hike up to the top of Parc Güell, where we had a beautiful view of the entire city of Barcelona. It’s a shame it was fairly cloudy out, for the pictures might have come out much clearer. At the center of the Parc, there was a stone hill with stairs running along the side, from the top of which the view was even better. After admiring this gorgeous bit of Catalonia, we wound our way back down the other side of the Parc to the Gaudí museum and cave-like area that we were 80% sure was the set for the Jungle episode of America’s Next Top Model. There were musicians playing good classical/jazz music, and the mosaics burst with colors I hadn’t even thought existed. We finished our night with a delicious dinner from the restaurant located – I kid you not – directly outside of our hostel. I had the least Spanish meal ever, pasta with arrabbiata sauce, but we had a series of Spanish cakes and pastries to round off our meal, so at least I made up for it.
We found a local club to go dancing, and I had an entertaining exchange with a boy there.
Boy: ¿Eres Peruana?
Me: No…
Boy: Soy de Lisbon, Portugal. ¿De donde eres?
Me: Los Estados Unidos…
Boy: ¿De Nueva York?
Me: No, de Tampa, Florida.
Boy: Ah! Eres Cubana!
February 28, 2010 – Barcelona to Málaga, Spain
Sunday morning dawned BRIGHT; the sun had finally decided to come out and grace us with its presence. We woke up an hour or so later than we’d intended, and after some rushing and some stress, we rushed to what we thought was the meeting point for our tour, only to find that a) we’d gone walking about 10 minutes past the office we should have been headed for and that b) our tour had left 15 minutes before we arrived. After getting really confused by the woman in the office who kept contradicting herself, we found out that we could neither get a refund nor join the tour midway through. Walking out of the office and heading in a different direction, we found the Barcelona Bus Tours ticket window and decided instead of wandering around trying to find the tour we’d missed, we’d jump on the bus instead, sit on the top deck and take pictures of the city as we drove through it. We did get a good feel for the city, but it was a little difficult to take pictures since the bus didn’t always stop for the sights. In addition to driving past the sights from the day before, we got explanations for the little monuments, statues, and symbols located in the most unexpected parts of the city. Barcelona is truly amazing, I would definitely go back and stay for at least a week. At the time most self-respecting British people were setting out for High Tea, we arrived back at the Barcelona airport, this time headed for Málaga, further south on the coast of Spain. The flight was delayed over an hour, putting us in Málaga after dark.
In Málaga, Elizabeth was waiting for us at our hostel – which was located right on the beach. If we hadn’t had to catch the bus to Algeciras in the morning, we would have spent a day lounging on the beach. The sand was almost white, the sky and water extremely blue, and the people in the hostel were a riot. We went to find dinner as we were absolutely famished and we found ourselves a pizzeria a ways down the road. At the pizzeria we discovered that we had miscalculated the time difference between Vancouver and Málaga. The USA-Canada fight for the Olympic Gold in Men’s Hockey was in its final stages. The waiter had the game on his TV and relayed the disappointing news to us: With the score 2-2, Canada won in the shootout. Depression was overcome by cake, though, and my delicious Tiramisu made all of life better.
From my journal (translated from Arabic): Right now, we’re going to Algeciras, the southernmost point of Spain. It is the closest crossing point to Tangier, Morocco. From this city, we can take the ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar to the Maghreb. I’m really excited and extremely happy… I think I’ll love Morocco quite a bit. I want to buy a ton of souvenirs (I probably won’t have enough money): PRETTY CLOTHES! Scarves, jewelry, leather from Fes. Before I talk more about Morocco, I have to say… I want to live in Spain for a few years. And now… I’m sitting on the bus and listening to my iPod, rocking out, as per usual. Sometimes I think… why didn’t I study in Morocco? I’m expecting this week to be a completely different experience than the last 2 months (my entire life minus those long summers in India) have been.
March 1, 2010 – Málaga to Algeciras, Spain to Tangier to Fes, Morocco
From my journal: Getting here was by far the most complex and odd thing ever, but it was all worth it in the end, if only for the palace of a hostel/guest house that we’re staying in… for a grand total of $20. The bus, ferry, bus, train journey became worth it after the DELICIOUS meal we had at a small restaurant just outside the Fes medina (The Arabic word “medina” literally translates to city. General meaning is an old marketplace, often the center of the Moroccan city). We had a traditional Moroccan appetizer of “salads,” by which they meant a multitude of plates with different types of curry, spicy vegetables, and vegetables soaked in vinegar accompanied by several hundred pieces of bread. Moroccans get really upset and/or offended if you don’t eat all of the food – they think either the food is bad or you didn’t like it. The waiter gave us the saddest look ever when he realized we’d barely put a dent in our salad, though all we were thinking was that we had yet to get to the main course. The minute he disappeared to bring out main course, we attempted to shovel down half of the food remaining on the table, in an attempt to un-insult him.
The entrées came out: I had a mountain of couscous topped with a mountain of vegetables. Can you say DEE-LICIOUS?!
The sights, the sounds, the smells, everything reminds me of India so far, but imagine a donkey for every cow. Tomorrow, we’re going to have breakfast in the Palace, and then our guide, Abdul, who found us at the train station upon our arrival in Fes, is going to take us around the Medina/city to see the sights. We’ve got until about 4 pm, because then we’ve got to be at the train station to catch our 5 pm train to Rabat. It’s a three hour train, but that’s not so bad. We’re meeting Jess, Aura, and Anthony at the station, and I honestly cannot WAIT to see them. (Translated from Arabic) Right now, I’m really tired. We’ve slept very little, especially in Spain. The Spanish fully believe in being awake until all hours of the morning, and we kept getting up sort of early to go sightseeing… From Málaga to Algeciras to Tangier to Fes, I think all I want to do is sleep for MANY hours. P.S. Postcards to the family were mailed today (Amma, Appa, Vinu, keep an eye out for them, you’ll hopefully get them soon. I’m not sure how reliable post from Morocco is…) Time to sleep.
March 2, 2010 – On the train to Rabat from Fes
From my journal: Back up a bit. Fes was just, WOW. So many colors, in addition to the sounds and smells. The city, silent upon our arrival, was bursting with life the next morning. It reminded me of India in so many ways, and then not at all. In India, I’ve never seen entire dead animals hanging from stall windows. Such stalls in Fes made entire sections of the medina smell like a butcher’s shop. But the men sometimes made quiet comments at us when we walked by, but we weren’t hassled as we had expected we’d be. Earlier, I mentioned that our guide found us at the train station. Here’s the story: We got off the train in Fes, unsure of what to expect, knowing that we needed to grab a cab (it was 10 pm) to take us to our hostel/guest house/palace. We walked outside and were asked where we needed to go. The minute I said the hostel name, the man we were talking to, Abdul, made a face and said it was “too far.” But, he said he knew how to get to it — apparently it was buried deep inside the Medina. He wasn’t joking – after 700 turns, 350 white walls and 600 brown doors (okay the numbers are a bit much, but I kid you not, everything was a white wall or a brown door), we came to our hostel. Abdul told us a little bit about the medina as we walked through it – there are 10,000 streets in the Fes medina and not a single one has a street sign. Little children run about freely – if you greet them with “bonjour,” they’ll say “bonjour” back, with better pronunciation than I have.
So far, Morocco has been very GREEN. But what’s more astounding is the variety in the foliage. There are palm trees in big, green, open fields, but they’re right next to shrubbery and druids, and… mountains. We went to the tannery in Fes today, and I got two bags of camel leather. One is very modern and trendy, the other is an ancient style Berber bag. I hadn’t anticipated buying anything at the leather souk, but really, they were beautiful… and when will I be in Fes again in the near future? From here I need to get souvenirs, gifts I promised, and my scarf. I’d like to go to the hammam also.. and be CLEAN.
It’s been raining since MORNING, and it sounds like the window in this compartment isn’t shut (which it clearly is). Sent a confirmation text to Aura to make sure everyone is at the train station in Rabat when we get there, or we’ll be completely lost. I don’t have a map of the city. It feels funny not to be going home for spring break, but this trip will definitely make up for it (Sorry guys!).
~We finally made it to Rabat on Tuesday late evening, around 8 pm. Anthony, Aura and Jess were indeed waiting for us at the train station: Rabat Ville. Seeing them made everything better – suddenly I wasn’t as tired as I’d felt before, and I hadn’t realized how much I’d missed my friends from home. They took us to a pizza place where we had cheap, delicious dinner and caught up on some basic things. Jess told me about her dilemma for her major, we met their friend Alex – she’s also from BU and on the Rabat program. They told us about their homestay families, the amenities, and their difficulties adjusting not just to life in Morocco, but life as a permanent guest in someone else’s home.
March 3, 2010 – Rabat to Casablanca
From my journal: Wednesday morning started with a regular Moroccan breakfast of bread, butter and jam. I skipped the orange juice in favor of tea, as Jess and Aura had promised to take us to the good orange juice place. They got us from the hostel and we went on an adventure through an internet cafe (FINALLY) to the cafe with the FRESHLY SQUEEZED ORANGE JUICE. After months of living in a landlocked, not-so-tropical country, I was craving tropical fruits, orange juice and peppers. We had delicious 10 dirham ($1.25) juice, noticed that all the people in the cafe were men, because apparently self-respecting women don’t frequent cafes. It’s quite sad because the food is delicious. We stopped in at one of the CCCL (Center for Cross-Cultural Learning) buildings to see where they have class, saw their library, met another student on the program, and headed out into the medina for some shopping time. We had halwa de chocolat – 2 dh, and so good. It was a nutty dessert ball encased in chocolate. How could I say no? I can safely say that if I were on the Morocco program, I’d have gained 20 pounds by now. We walked through vegetable street, past the neighborhood bakery, to get to the souks. I bought a bracelet for me and a gift for William. Anthony joined us on the way to the Kasbah.
The views from the Kasbah:
Post-picture madness at the Kasbah, we went to the Chellah Gardens to chill and relax a little. The gardens were bright and sunny, and after feeling reenergized, we headed to Jess’s house, because her homestay mother had invited us all to lunch. Her homestay mom made us a delicious traditional meal of salads, bread and tagine. Unfortunately it was chicken tagine, so I didn’t eat it, but I did have the multiple salad dishes and a lot of bread. The bread we ate had been baked in the neighborhood bakery we had passed on our way to the Kasbah. Anthony couldn’t come with us because Jess’s house is extremely traditional – no boys who aren’t family members are allowed inside because of Jess’s homestay sisters. I had been worried about the proper way to thank Jess’s homestay mother for her hospitality, but it turned out that the father had a store in the medina that sold Moroccan teapots, which everyone wanted. Danielle, Elizabeth and Adrianna all bought beautiful teapots to go with the Moroccan tea they bought at the pharmacy in Fes.
I really liked the traditional feel of Rabat, and whatever had been lacking in Geneva was finally reconciled. Maybe I just needed to see those friends, but maybe I needed some place to remind me of home.
Casablanca by Night
From my journal: Adrianna’s friend picked us up from the train station on Wednesday evening and took us to the apartment to drop off all of our stuff. We showered, felt clean, and wandered out to get dinner. As a break from all of the authentic Moroccan food we’d been eating, and on account of Casablanca being extremely modern, we went to a non-Moroccan place and had American food. I had a salad that awkwardly had corn in it, bread and fries. Covered all those food groups… We went out in Casablanca, which is basically the New York City of Morocco. Clubs don’t open until 12:30, so we chilled at a bar first. We went to a live music club where it seemed to be Motown night, and I knew a fair number of the songs being played. It was nice to get out and dance for the night.
March 4, 2010 – Casablanca by Day
From my journal: We woke up early again and went out to the bakery on the block to get breakfast. We had pastries – croissants, etc – and orange juice before we set out for the hammam. We got dropped off at the hammam, La Pacha, a place where Adrianna’s friend goes (i.e. not a tourist hotspot). It was a nice hammam though, and we got the entire package: the regular hammam plus a massage and a silk wrap. It’s Morocco, an Islamic country, so it’s obviously gender segregated. When you enter the hammam, you first go into the steam room where you rub the hammam soap all over yourself, steam yourself for a bit and then rinse off, fancy bucket bath style. Next, you lie on these beds and a Moroccan woman SCRUBS you with your own special hammam scrubbing glove… for a good half hour. After all the dead skin and any dirt I might have encountered in my entire life was scrubbed off of me, I stepped into the shower to rinse. Then, I was covered in silk-mud, which smelled distinctly like henna (but it wasn’t a dye), and wrapped in thick saran wrap cocoon. The mud heated up, and I felt entirely relaxed. Finally, when the mud cooled, I was unwrapped and went again to rinse off. I thought that was the end, but I’d forgotten about the massage. The same woman who scrubbed me gave me a soap massage. She found a knot in my bag and proceeded to scold me in Arabic for having too much stress. When she realized that I vaguely understood what she was saying, she continued in the same vein. Finally, I rinsed off in the shower again, then washed my hair, bucket bath style. There were fountains all around the perimeter of the main hammam room, and little stools at each fountain on which to sit and wash your hair. After we were all done steaming, scrubbing, purifying, relaxing, and rinsing, we stepped into the drying room to towel off and get dressed. I checked the time – we had entered the hammam at 10:45 am, and we stepped into the drying room at 12:45 pm. I felt clean FOREVER.
Coming out of the hammam, we tried to hail a taxi and failed SO miserably. We kept getting rejected by the petit taxis and for the life of us could not figure out why. Adrianna’s friend, Saad, finally picked us up and took us to lunch at Pizza Roufe. Yep, I had pizza. And it was delicious. Next, we went to the Mosque of Hassan II, staring shamelessly in awe of this gorgeous piece of architecture. Never mind its location, right on the beach, with the waves splashed up on the shore nearby, but the pristine feel of the place, the intricate architecture. It felt like a completely different world compared to the old medinas and even half of the buildings in the new parts of the city. We were laughed at for being too touristy, but I don’t regret it one bit. The pictures came out beautifully.
We took a short trip into the Casablanca medina, a far cry from the medinas of Fes or Rabat. The architecture was more modern, the roads were paved, and probably because we were with Saad, we didn’t get hassled. Elizabeth bought another purse, we picked up Saad’s sister, and headed to the beach. By this time, it was dark out, and the waters cold, but the lights of the city at night simply sparkled. Elizabeth took some snazzy pictures on her snazzy camera, and the waters of the Atlantic tried to attack me. The tide came up higher than I anticipated, but hey, now I’ve touched African waters.
The others had paninis at Pueblo, but Danielle and I, both still full from lunch, went with Dina, Saad’s sister, to a cafe for coffee and desserts. In the process of choosing an ice cream flavor, I tried about 8 other flavors, but then, I’m not passing up free ice cream. I ended up with cafe au lait, dolce latte ice cream, and a chocolate mousse cake.
… Tomorrow we’re headed to Marrakech at 6:30 am. Hopefully, traveling on very little sleep won’t kill us…
March 5, 2010
We got to Jamâ El F’na, the main square where the medina converges, and after considerable difficulty, we found our hostel. We put our things in the hostel, got a little help from the woman working in the hostel (who was from Australia, of all random places), and wandered back into the medina on our way to the Koutoubia. Given that it stands out above everything in the medina and even most parts of the city, it was relatively easy to find. After pictures there, and a look at the gardens behind it, we went to the Cafe du France for lunch, had different but delicious couscous. We participated in the traditionally male-dominated National Moroccan sport of Café sitting (and people-watching).
While we were at lunch, we heard the call to prayer. For the first time all week, I saw people get out prayer mats, and sometimes just pieces of cardboard mats. All the men in djellabas lined up in rows and knelt down on their cardboard mats and prayed. I felt mildly awkward staring at them and eating during their prayers. We adventured into the souks next, looking for jewelry, scarves, and gifts. I bought so much, but actually didn’t spend too much money on it thanks to the currency exchange rate. I realized after Rabat that Jess’s arabic has gotten really good, but mostly she’s just gotten confident using it. So I tried… I found out really quickly that by speaking in arabic I got better starting prices for all the goods in the souk, and people just really loved it. Everyone loved that I’m Indian… random women would come up to me and ask “Anti Hindia?” (Are you Indian?) and upon receiving affirmation, tell me “Marhaba! Welcome to our country!” After 4+ hours of shopping and haggling in Arabic, I felt exhausted. With no help from a man who wanted money from us and with lots of help from a little boy playing in the medina with his friend, we found the Madersa Ben Youssef on the opposite end of the souk from Jamâ El F’na. The Madersa, a dormitory for the old Quranic school, had ornate wooden work inside, though the students’ rooms were very tiny, and not very well lit. Some of the rooms lacked windows with access to sunlight – something I feel would be depressing. Next, we went to Jardin Aguedal, the King’s garden, located behind the Palais Royal. We tried to chill in the garden, but upon sitting down on a fountain wall, were told off by the guards. Seriously, what’s the point of a garden you can’t relax in??
Holding an evil monkey, no big deal:
We met up with Sam and Marianna and their two friends from London for dinner at the Cafe Argana in Jamâ El F’na. I had couscous vegetal, and again, it was nothing like the couscous I’d had before. Post dinner, I felt exhausted and decided to turn in early for the night. The beds at the hostel left much to be desired and my back hurt quite a lot.
March 7, 2010 – Ma’Selaama, Morocco
From my journal: We’re delayed in Marrakech, and should have been arriving in Geneva… right now. We might be re-boarding at 1 pm, but it’s EasyJet, so it’s entirely possible that we won’t. They said the plane had electrical failure, which really makes me want to get back on the plane. I’ve accepted that we might not get home tonight, but I hope we do. All I want to do right now is crawl into my Rue Muzy bed with its uncomfortable pillow and sleep for 35 hours straight.
— Back on the plane at 2:15 pm, and now there’s no chance of getting back to Genéve before all of the grocery stores close. I still have potatoes…
My final thoughts on Morocco all boil down to one comment: What an amazing country! The scenery changes as we travelled south were phenomenal, and the atmosphere of every city different from the last. We saw the mountains in the north, the coastal cities, the Capital, and the Atlas Mountains. Seeing the snowcapped mountains juxtaposed with Marrakech’s desert style architecture and palm trees in the foreground was unreal.
Dear Morocco,
I’ll be back.
Love, Viesh